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Tackle Tips

Make Your Own Tackle

Finishing Jigs and Lures

PAINT
Getting a professional finish on your jigs and lures requires a good base coat first. White paint makes the best base because it adheres well and is easily covered by other colors. For a truly outstanding finish use two white base coats followed by one or two coats of the selected color, then seal with a clear gloss or clear epoxy final coat. Paint can be applied by a variety of methods: brushing, dipping, or even spraying with an air brush. Usually, two thin coats will cover better and be more attractive than the same amount of paint applied in one thick coat. Paints made for use on metal are available at hardware, paint and automotive stores. Some tackle shops will carry paints specially formulated for use on lures. Lacquer and enamel paints are the most economical, but have some drawbacks. They chip easily and may react with chemicals found in the soft plastic bodies often used on fishing lures. Epoxy type paints produce hard and durable finishes and do not react with plastic bodies. Epoxy paints are expensive and must be mixed with a hardener before use. Once mixed, epoxy paints must be used at once. Be certain to follow the manufacturers instructions with all paints.

Vinyl Jig & Lure FinishAnother choice has proven to be one of the best paints for fishing lures: VINYL JIG & LURE FINISH. Many lures receive rough use over rocks and obstructions. Most paints will chip and flake when subjected to this kind of use, but vinyl remains flexible and holds up exceptionally well. Vinyl is nearly as easy to apply as lacquer or enamel and as chip resistant as epoxy. Many of the most popular soft plastic bodies do not react with vinyl finish, thus eliminating the need for an epoxy sealer coat in most cases. Vinyl Jig & Lure Finish is a top choice for most tackle crafters. Hobbyist tackle makers are also finding another type of paint, POWDER PAINT, can also be a good option for simple jigs. Powder paint gives quick one coat coverage without need for any base coat. Application of powder paint is much different from other paints. It requires that the jig be preheated to 350 degrees F. (some use a heat gun, toaster oven, or propane torch to heat the jig). The hot lure is dipped into loose powder paint for an instant. The powder will melt immediately upon contacting the heated metal and bond to form a smooth, even, and high gloss finish. It cools in just a moment and the lure could be used immediately. The powder paint is brittle at this stage, like a lacquer paint. With one more step, powder paint can be changed into a super tough finish. Suspend the jig in a curing oven for 20 minutes at 250 degrees F. to turn it into a hard, almost epoxy like finish. Be certain to remove any paint in the hook eye before oven curing because the final finish is so tough it will be impossible to remove later. The paint will temporarily soften during an oven cure, so place aluminum foil under the jig to collect any paint drips.

PAINT AND OXIDATION
While there are almost as many types and brands of paint as there are colors, better results will be obtained with any of them if the jig heads are painted shortly after they are poured. The reason for this is that lead will start oxidizing after it is cast. This could occur in as short a time as a couple of days in high humidity conditions. Paint adheres poorly to oxidized metal. If casting a large quantity of jig heads for future completion, it would be wise to prime them before they are set aside. Once primed, oxidation is stopped and the jigs may be stored indefinitely before they are painted and finished.

TYING JIGS
Most jigs are tied with hair (bucktail) or feather (marabou.) You should have three tools to tie jigs: a jig or fly tier’s vise, a thread bobbin and a good scissors. Tying is a matter of wrapping and tying thread tightly around the material to be attached to the jig. Head cement can be brushed on the wrap to insure that it does not loosen.

RUBBER
Filament Rubber” or “Living Rubber” has proven to be very effective material on many lures. This material comes in long, pre-slit flat strips about 1” in width. These strips must be cut to length and attached to the lure by wrapping tightly with strong thread or fine wire. Then the strips are stretched away from the lure and trimmed with scissors. The pre-slit strands separate into tentacles when stretched and cut and thus spring to life. Tools are also available to easily make removable rubber skirts from this material.

SOURCES OF FINISHING MATERIALS AND ADVICE
Your local sporting goods store or tackle shop is a good source of advice and may carry much of the material that you will want to complete your lures, or can obtain them for you. Mail order tackle specialty firms typically advertise in fishing magazines, and often these firms can supply hard to find items.

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