Finishing Jigs and Lures
PAINT
Getting a professional finish on your jigs and lures requires a good
base coat first. White paint makes the best base because it adheres
well and is easily covered by other colors. For a truly outstanding
finish use two white base coats followed by one or two coats of the
selected color, then seal with a clear gloss or clear epoxy final
coat. Paint can be applied by a variety of methods: brushing, dipping,
or even spraying with an air brush. Usually, two thin coats will
cover better and be more attractive than the same amount of paint
applied in one thick coat. Paints made for use on metal are available
at hardware, paint and automotive stores. Some tackle shops will
carry paints specially formulated for use on lures. Lacquer and enamel
paints are the most economical, but have some drawbacks. They chip
easily and may react with chemicals found in the soft plastic bodies
often used on fishing lures. Epoxy type paints produce hard and durable
finishes and do not react with plastic bodies. Epoxy paints are expensive
and must be mixed with a hardener before use. Once mixed, epoxy paints
must be used at once. Be certain to follow the manufacturers instructions
with all paints.
Another choice has proven to be one of the best paints for fishing
lures: VINYL JIG & LURE FINISH. Many lures receive rough use
over rocks and obstructions. Most paints will chip and flake when
subjected to this kind of use, but vinyl remains flexible and holds
up exceptionally well. Vinyl is nearly as easy to apply as lacquer
or enamel and as chip resistant as epoxy. Many of the most popular
soft plastic bodies do not react with vinyl finish, thus eliminating
the need for an epoxy sealer coat in most cases. Vinyl Jig & Lure
Finish is a top choice for most tackle crafters. Hobbyist tackle
makers are also finding another type of paint, POWDER
PAINT, can
also be a good option for simple jigs. Powder paint gives quick one
coat coverage without need for any base coat. Application of powder
paint is much different from other paints. It requires that the jig
be preheated to 350 degrees F. (some use a heat gun, toaster oven,
or propane torch to heat the jig). The hot lure is dipped into loose
powder paint for an instant. The powder will melt immediately upon
contacting the heated metal and bond to form a smooth, even, and
high gloss finish. It cools in just a moment and the lure could be
used immediately. The powder paint is brittle at this stage, like
a lacquer paint. With one more step, powder paint can be changed
into a super tough finish. Suspend the jig in a curing oven for 20
minutes at 250 degrees F. to turn it into a hard, almost epoxy like
finish. Be certain to remove any paint in the hook eye before oven
curing because the final finish is so tough it will be impossible
to remove later. The paint will temporarily soften during an oven
cure, so place aluminum foil under the jig to collect any paint drips.
PAINT AND OXIDATION
While there are almost as many types and brands of paint as there
are colors, better results will be obtained with any of them if
the jig heads are painted shortly after they are poured. The reason
for this is that lead will start oxidizing after it is cast. This
could occur in as short a time as a couple of days in high humidity
conditions. Paint adheres poorly to oxidized metal. If casting
a large quantity of jig heads for future completion, it would be
wise to prime them before they are set aside. Once primed, oxidation
is stopped and the jigs may be stored indefinitely before they
are painted and finished.
TYING JIGS
Most jigs are tied with hair (bucktail) or feather (marabou.) You
should have three tools to tie jigs: a
jig or fly tier’s
vise, a thread bobbin and a good scissors. Tying is a matter of
wrapping and tying thread tightly around the material to be attached
to the jig. Head cement can be brushed on the wrap to insure that
it does not loosen.
RUBBER
“Filament Rubber” or “Living Rubber” has
proven to be very effective material on many lures. This material
comes in long, pre-slit flat strips about 1” in width. These
strips must be cut to length and attached to the lure by wrapping
tightly with strong thread or fine wire. Then the strips are stretched
away from the lure and trimmed with scissors. The pre-slit strands
separate into tentacles when stretched and cut and thus spring to
life. Tools are also available to easily make removable rubber skirts
from this material.
SOURCES OF FINISHING MATERIALS AND ADVICE
Your local sporting goods store or tackle shop is a good source of
advice and may carry much of the material that you will want to complete
your lures, or can obtain them for you. Mail order tackle specialty
firms typically advertise in fishing magazines, and often these firms
can supply hard to find items. |